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Climbing
the Flatirons - Boulder, CO |
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By
Tod Bloxham
When you’re in Boulder, it's really hard to
miss the Flatirons; they are a beautiful set of
angled slab mountains about 1,000' tall that are
right on the edge of town. The setting itself is
actually pretty amazing considering that the Flatirons
are part of a city park, lucky home owners are within
a few minute walk of them, and they overlook the
whole town of Boulder (and beyond!). |
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On
a trip to Boulder this last April, Edgeworks Manager
Jayson Owens and I set out to climb the Direct East
Face of the First Flatiron; This is the longest
route on the First, some 1,000' long and requiring
some 10 pitches of mostly trad climbing (using natural
protection, little to no bolts). There are sections
of serious run-out, but what the route lacks in
protection it makes up for in being an all-around
classic climb with stunning views and solid rock. |
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The
morning we set out was a sunny but cool early spring
morning; a perfect day for a climb. We quickly parked
and set out for the 20 minute hike to the base of
the route and found 2 parties ahead of us, one from
Illinois, the other from Alaska. Being that there
were groups ahead of us we decided to do a short
variation to the right of their route that had 40'-80'
of delicate run-out on some beautiful slab climbing.
We quickly learned that we weren't going to be doing
the usual pitch after pitch with belays, the climbing
was easy and fun so we ended up simul-climbing right
from the start. |
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Simul-climbing
is where the lead climber and the 2nd (climber)
climb at the same time on opposite ends of the rope.
With less than 100' of rope between us, if one climber
falls, we still have some protection in the rock
to catch us. For Jayson and I this was a chance
to go faster over easier ground and enjoy more continuous
climbing. |
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The
route featured narrow shelves, small dihedrals,
and large pockets and chicken heads. One of the
most interesting parts of the climb were the chicken
heads themselves (chicken heads: small to large
nubbins of rock sticking out from a slab of rock
that you can grab or stand on). In some cases the
chicken heads weren’t even chicken heads at
all, they were horns or flakes resembling the shape
of a chickens in which you could wrap slings around
the necks and clip your rope to for protection.
The last pitch was an interesting highlight of up
and down climbing along the serrated ridge of the
Flatiron while peering down overhanging drop off
the far side. Looking over the edge with the wind
pushing you around definitely made you keep a good
hold of the rock. |
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The
climbing was fun and we turned what was supposed
to be 10 pitches into 4 long pitches and quickly
reached the top. From the summit you could see all
of Boulder, the snowy peaks of the Front Range (including
Mt. Meeker, 13,911'), and the flat plains to the
east with the skyscrapers of Downtown Denver in
the distance (and maybe Oklahoma on the horizon).
A great view and a great place to hang out on a
warm sunny day. After enjoying the view, we finished
the route with an fun overhanging (mid-air) 110'
rappel to the hikers trail and a leisurely hike
back down. |
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The
Direct East Face of the First Flatiron is a great
intro to climbing in Boulder; the views are incredible,
the climbing is relaxed and you can end your climb
by driving a couple of blocks to Snarf's for lunch
and have one of the best sandwich's in town. |
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Climbing
the Flatirons is definitely a must do for any climber
visiting Boulder! |
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The
Flatirons, Boulder CO
Jayson
Owens midway up the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron,
Boulder CO. |
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The
Warrior's Way |
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Mental
Fitness Training for Climbers
The Warrior's Way Clinic with Arno Ilgner |
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Time:
Friday,
May 11th, 12-4pm & 6-10pm
Cost: $75 non-members / $60 members (limit
6 per clinic) |
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* Are you accomplishing
all your climbing goals?
* Are you
frustrated or disillusioned with your climbing?
* Have you hit
a performance plateau?
* Could your mental approach be
to blame? |
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Edgeworks
Climbing is hosting Arno Ilgner of the Desiderata
Institute to teach his unique Warrior's Way clinics
on mental fitness. |
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Some
things that you will learn:
* Improve self observation skills
* Risk assessment
* Practice falling in small increments
* Set a powerful intention and
commit to that intention
* Trust in the process
* Deal with climbing stress/chaos
* Improve problem-solving skills
* Reduce fear and more |
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"I
believe The Warrior's Way will help climbers
raise their level of power without any additional
training."
-Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, 4 Time World Cup
Champion |
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"The
Warrior's Way is an invaluable guide for anyone
sincerely looking to have a breakthrough in
their approach to climbing."
-Chris Sharma |
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2007
T-TOWN CLIMBING CHALLENGE |
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EDGEWORKS
CLIMBING
TACOMA, WASHINGTON
APRIL 28, 2007
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The
Edgeworks T-Town Climbing Challenge
was a great success! Some of the best
climbers in Tacoma,
the northwest and the nation
showed up to compete (including climbers from
California and Idaho). |
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You
don't have to be a top climber to compete;
some of the climbers who had the most
fun were in it just for the
fun of it. Edgeworks members
as well as family and friends
alike lined up to test their skills
on the best routes of the year
at Edgeworks. |
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Thanks
to all the climbers,
staff and volunteers
who helped make this years comp a
success! |
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Edgeworks
Climber
Linda Simoneaux - 1st Place |
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Adult
Training Team |
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Whether
you are a total novice or an experienced
climber, if you are looking to take
your climbing to the next level, the adult
team is for you. Taught by our professional
coaching staff, this training group meets
twice a week for a 2 hour session designed to amp
up your climbing. Course focuses on fundamental
climbing skills and targeted training to
eliminate your climbing 'weaknesses'.
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*
Take your climbing to the next level
as part of
The Adult Training Team!
* Tuesdays/Thursdays, 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm
* Members: $75/month - Non-members: $95/month
* Ages 19 to 94
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TRAIN
FOR THE NEXT LEVEL!
JOIN THE ADULT TRAINING TEAM!
Call
today for more information or to sign up! |
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New
Routes! |
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Edgeworks
has it's best routes of the year
up now! We set for the competition all last week
and we now have over 45 routes
up that have been carefully set and refined
for your enjoyment! Come try out the new
routes! |
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Here's
a sample of some of the best routes in the
gym:
Rope
6: |
5.10- |
Boondock
Saints |
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A
body stemming route. Super Fun! |
Rope
7: |
5.8 |
Five
Gallon Buckets |
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Classic
big jugs. |
Rope
15: |
5.13 |
Fight
Club |
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So
hard no one has climbed it yet. |
Rope
19: |
5.12 |
Heinous
Cling |
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Can
you find the hidden pocket? Pumpy! |
Rope
28: |
5.11 |
Milk
Crate Fever |
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Rumored
to be Edgeworks best route ever! |
Anchor
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5.11+ |
Toxic |
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A
great lead route with a hard finish. |
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New
Grading Scheme:
Edgeworks
has a new grading scheme for our roped routes. We've
done away with the "a" "b"
"c" "d" grades and are
now using "-" "blank" "+".
It's now easier than ever to find a route to climb!
Examples: |
Grade
was: |
Grade
is now: |
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5.10a
or 5.10b |
5.10- |
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5.10b
or 5.10c |
5.10 |
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5.10c
or 5.10d |
5.10+ |
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Edgeworks Climber
Kimberly Nakano |
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2007
Summer Camps! |
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Registration
of our 2006 Youth Summer Camps has begun!
Edgeworks Climbing
is proud to offer week long summer camps and two
day Family Camps for beginner, intermediate and
advanced climbers of all ages! Whether you're
looking for a camp to introduce your children
to the sport of rock climbing or you're looking
for a fun outing for the whole family, Edgeworks'
summer camps are a fun and safe way to enjoy the
sport of rock climbing this summer!
Our
Featured Summer Camps |
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Kids Rock Camp
Indoor Only *
Ages 6-10
* Basic Climbing Camp
Indoor/Outdoor *
Ages 9-17
* Advanced Climbing Camp
Indoor/Outdoor *
Ages 9-17
* Outdoor Rock Camp |
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Indoor/Outdoor/Camping
* Ages 10-17
* 2-Day Family Camp
Indoor/Outdoor *
For the whole Family * Ages
9 and older |
(click
here for camp details)
For more information and registration please call
253-564-4899. |
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Team
Building Events at Edgeworks |
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Edgeworks
Climbing hosts team building events
for companies and groups that build confidence,
trust and respect
among peers. We use classic team
building exercises combined with climbing specific
activities to produce a truly memorable
event. Our programs are a fun
and exciting way to build a group
that pulls together to get those tough projects
completed.
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Events
Details:
* Available 7 days a week
* 2-hour, Half-Day and Full-Day
Events
* Proven confidence and trust building
activities
* Problem Solving Games/Activities,
Climbing and Rappelling
* All Events Hosted by our Senior
Level Instructors
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*For
more information and pricing contact
Jayson Owens - 253-564-4899 |
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This
Month at Edgeworks! |
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May
is a great time to climb at Edgeworks.
We have what many consider to be the best routes
of the year, due to our April Competition. And
we are hosting two clinics that will hone your
“mental game” and prepare you for
some great summer climbing.
For our full schedule of this months calendar (click
here)! |
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Women's
Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May
4th
Ladies - Come on in and climb, after 5pm at a discounted
rate. Meet lots of new friends and climb hard with old
friends. $9 Day Pass. First Friday of each month. |
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College
Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May
11th
Seeking a higher education? Let off some steam and join
other students for an evening of climbing at a discounted
rate. Day passes are $9 with a valid Washington State
College ID.
Second Friday of each month. |
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Family
Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May
18th
Bring the whole family and meet other climbing families!
First adult family member pays full price ($15 day pass),
additional family members pay $5.
Third Friday of each month. |
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